![]() For my beaded frame I used a 1/16" opening to simulate the recessed bead element, the other components frame & bead were defined as separations. All other configuration components are relative to the cabinet width. Unfortunately there is only one element (a separation) in the cabinet configuration that I been able to find that its dimension (specifically it's width) is absolute. What I was working on before was almost there but one issue arose that would really limit its usefulness. However in the New England states I can fully appreciate the demand. Most designs are going transitional, modern & contemporary. Fortunately in my region there is not much need for this style anymore. IF the double door symbol is used as a door you get one piece of hardware, If it is used as a door panel you get none. Chief doesn't put hardware on false drawers. The drawer has to be a "false drawer" or the drawer box show through. These will resize with cabinets (as would the first ones I posted) But they will also work with different configurations and combined cabinets (you can use the new split face tool) Then replace the door from library with the door of your choice- change the dimensions to match the old door, make a symbol, add to library. Just select whichever of the provided block types you need (single door, double door, drawer)ĭrop into a new plan, explode, open the door to get dimensions and height off the floor (I'm not very consistant when creating doors To change door style you will have to create a new symbol but this is a kit. (Be a good idea to open the symbols to check sizing and such.) That recesses it into the cabinet I've had to do this with lipped doors. I set the Y access of the symbol at 13/16. ![]() To use these symbols I set the cabinet as traditional overlay with a ZERO overlap. For reference I stuck a couple of cabinets in it. I included each as both a symbol and as an arch block (the kit part). There is a single drawer, a single door, and a double door. The problem with that one is creating combined cabinets since the door was full overlay. The first plan I posted allows you to change out the door to any door, create a symbol from that and use it. I do know if I were remodel our kitchen and decided to go with the wide rail & stile look I'd take care to make all of my double door uppers at least 30" wide and I would probably go full overlay.Graham- I understand what is being attempted. It may be as simple as I think the more modern look of the wider rails goes better with the more modern look of full overlay, I don't know. With full overlay each door is now just shy of 12" wide which now makes that center panel around twice as wide as the stile that holds it.Įveryone's taste is different and I'm only trying to quantify mine. That would make each rail 60% of the width of the panel it holds. With 3" wide stiles and standard overlay that center panel is now 5" wide. So each stile is about a third of the width of the panel it holds. With 2.25" stiles that makes the center panel 6.5" wide. ![]() With standard overlay that makes each door 11" wide. It's okay on one or two doors but if there are several upper doors in a row I don't care for it as much.įor example, I have two, 24" double-door upper cabinets side by side in our kitchen. Then if the stile is more than half with width of the panel it holds I think it gets even worse. There is something about the reveal on standard overlay being so much less than the stile next to it that I don't like proportion wise. I do like the wide rail look but I think it can look a bit awkward on standard overlay and on kitchens with a lot of narrow doors. Our Shaker cabinets have 2.25" rails and stiles with standard overlay. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |